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Essaouira
...perched on a rocky peninsula surrounded by fortifications
Formerly known as Mogador, a corruption of a Berber word for “safe anchorage”, Essaouira perches on a rocky peninsula surrounded by fortifications.
With its picture-postcard stone ramparts and turrets, and its almost perfectly preserved maze-like medina, Essaouira is the most popular and attractive of the Atlantic coastal towns.
Inside the town walls, it’s all light and charm, a labyrinth of narrow lanes, whitewashed and blue shuttered houses, tranquil squares, artisans in tiny workshops, art galleries.
In recent years, Essaouira has attracted a sizeable community of artists, enchanted by the place.
The town faces a group of rocky islands and is surrounded by an expanse of empty sandy beaches and dunes.
The strong coastal wind, known locally as the alizee, which blows nearly all year round, has also made Essaouira Morocco’s best-known surfing and windsurfing centre. It’s hardly surprising that Essaouira’s reputation is spreading. However the town retains its laid-back atmosphere.
The walled town is split into the mellah, medina and Kasbah, all laid out on a surprisingly simple grid system. The Porte de la Marine opens out onto the busy harbour, where, at midday, the appetising aroma of freshly grilled fish served at makeshifts stands pervades the air. Just behind the Porte de la Marine, is the Skala du Port – the ramparts – with a battery of 18th century cannons. From here there is a great view of the town, the harbour and the rocky Purple Isles off-shore. These days, the uninhabited islands are a sanctuary for Eleanora’s Falcons, which come here to breed from April to October before making their incredible journey south to Madagascar. Locals and tourists alike gather here to watch the sun disappear over the horizon. Under the ramparts, a row of carpentry workshops produce crafts and furniture carved from thuja wood, which like the argan is the native area. The harbour, bustling with ship-builders and fishing boats, is well worth a wander at any time. You can also try to catch the fish auction which takes place in the market hall just outside the port gates.
The beach stretches some 10 km down the coast to the sand dunes of Cap Sim. Free entertainment in the form of soccer, basketball and beach volley matches often takes place at the top end. Further south, across the Ksar River, you will pass the ruins of an old fortress partially covered in sand. The beach is windy and has a strong current. About 27 km south of Essaouira, the charming village of Sidi Kaouki is one of Morocco’s top windsurfing and surfing spots. The excellent stretch of stony sand is backed by a basic camp site, a row of small stalls serving tajines, seafood and snacks.
Essaouira and its region remains a thoroughly enjoyable base to rest up after being in the cities, the Atlas or the desert.
The town faces a group of rocky islands and is surrounded by an expanse of empty sandy beaches and dunes.
The strong coastal wind, known locally as the alizee, which blows nearly all year round, has also made Essaouira Morocco’s best-known surfing and windsurfing centre. It’s hardly surprising that Essaouira’s reputation is spreading. However the town retains its laid-back atmosphere.
The walled town is split into the mellah, medina and Kasbah, all laid out on a surprisingly simple grid system. The Porte de la Marine opens out onto the busy harbour, where, at midday, the appetising aroma of freshly grilled fish served at makeshifts stands pervades the air. Just behind the Porte de la Marine, is the Skala du Port – the ramparts – with a battery of 18th century cannons. From here there is a great view of the town, the harbour and the rocky Purple Isles off-shore. These days, the uninhabited islands are a sanctuary for Eleanora’s Falcons, which come here to breed from April to October before making their incredible journey south to Madagascar. Locals and tourists alike gather here to watch the sun disappear over the horizon. Under the ramparts, a row of carpentry workshops produce crafts and furniture carved from thuja wood, which like the argan is the native area. The harbour, bustling with ship-builders and fishing boats, is well worth a wander at any time. You can also try to catch the fish auction which takes place in the market hall just outside the port gates.
The beach stretches some 10 km down the coast to the sand dunes of Cap Sim. Free entertainment in the form of soccer, basketball and beach volley matches often takes place at the top end. Further south, across the Ksar River, you will pass the ruins of an old fortress partially covered in sand. The beach is windy and has a strong current. About 27 km south of Essaouira, the charming village of Sidi Kaouki is one of Morocco’s top windsurfing and surfing spots. The excellent stretch of stony sand is backed by a basic camp site, a row of small stalls serving tajines, seafood and snacks.
Essaouira and its region remains a thoroughly enjoyable base to rest up after being in the cities, the Atlas or the desert.